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There's also complimentary homemade cake served every afternoon. Rooms at the Arte Hotel (7) at 5 Dondukov Boulevard (00 359 ; artehotelbg.com) are a little tired but the hotel is well located and the walls are adorned with Bulgarian art from the owner's private collection. Take a hike Start at the horseback statue of Emperor Alexander II (8) on Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard, commemorating the liberation of Bulgaria from the Ottomans in 1878.
Across the road stands the elegant National Assembly building (4), built in 1879. Much of the city centre is paved with lemon-coloured tiles believed to have been a wedding gift to Bulgarian Prince Ferdinand in the late 19th century.
Cultural afternoon Across the road is the former Royal Palace (16) at 1 Alexander Battenberg Street (10am-6pm daily except Mondays), a custard-yellow Viennese style mansion built in 1873.
Standing among the striking Stalinist-era architecture are ancient Byzantine masterpieces, built during the 500 years of Ottoman rule, as well as ruins of a Roman metropolis.Easy Jet (08; easyjet.com) flies from Gatwick, Stansted and Manchester; and Wizz Air (09; wizzair.com) from Luton.